When the name Cartier is mentioned (thanks to incessant advertising) one conjures up an image of the elegant, the opulent, of exquisitely designed and crafted Jewellery, timepieces and objets d’art synonymous with unrivalled quality of fine craftsmanship. However, it was only seeing the historical collection at the Grand Palais last week, that I fully appreciated the company’s early scope and vision both on a business level in practically inventing the luxury Jewellery market, to the leading asthetic role that Cartier played in development of the decorative arts.
The exhibition, which is displayed sumptuously beneath the vaulted glass ceiling of the Grand Palais, took me on a stunningly beautiful and extraordinary journey, spanning 160 years from Cartier’s establishment in 1847 by Louis-Francois, through the Belle Epoque, Art Deco eras and the decades that followed. The exhibition includes a staggering collection of 600 pieces of Jewellery and objet d’arts, arranged with impeccable French taste and elegance. There are many iconic pieces made for equally iconic clients from royalty to wealthy American heiresses. It was hard to focus on one piece at a time when the next was glinting enticingly out of the corner of my eye. It was the stories around the jewellery that really held my attention though, whether that was the sparkling collection of tiaras made for European royal families or the Panther brooch commissioned by Wallis Simpson.
The bespoke piece that summed up the genius of the craftsmen for me was the spectacular serpent collar necklace commissioned by the extravagant Mexican actress, Maria Felix in the late 1960’s. Ordinarily it would not be my taste but I was astounded by the quality of the work and the boldness of the idea. It took a whole year to make. Using platinum set with diamonds and emeralds and enameled elements, the whole piece is articulated to create the sinuous fluidity needed to drape around the actress’s neck and to represent the serpent. A perfect union of form and function.
Maria Felix's bespoke jewellery crocodiles
A short blog is not going to do justice to this exhibition. If you love Jewellery, then get over to Paris and see for yourself. The exhibition runs until 16 February 2014 and tickets are available at www.grandpalais.fr/en/event/cartier-style-and-history